In summer we get many calls and questions from members of the public with bees in their houses, outbuildings and gardens but our volunteer members are only able to help in cases of swarms of honey bees.

Bees swarm as a natural process of reproduction, driven by a growing colony needing more space. When a hive becomes too crowded, the colony raises new queens, and the old queen leaves with a large portion of the worker bees to establish a new colony. Before leaving, the swarm gorges on honey for energy, making them typically docile as they search for a new home.

If you have a swarm that you would like to report for someone to collect, there are numerous people who are experienced in collecting these within our area. Many of whom are members of Hastings and Rother Bee Association.

It is important to identify the bees as honey bees and not wasps or hornets. Those who are collecting these bees are most likely to collect the bees for free as they’re able to home the bees with members waiting on bees or to be kept to produce lovely honey. As they’re giving up their time to collect the bees it is important to recognise honey bees over other insects to avoid everyone’s time being wasted.

Keep children and pets inside or away from the swarm and out of the way of the bees. Those without protective clothing are at risk of stings and further complications.

To identify a honey bee swarm, look for a dense, brown or golden-brown cluster of insects—often about the size of a football or basketball—hanging from a structure like a tree branch, fence, or even a vehicle. Unlike established nests, a swarm is a temporary stop where bees are simply resting while scout bees search for a permanent home. Use our Identify Page or the BBKA Identify page to determine they are indeed honey bees.

Detailed close-up of a honey bee colony forming a natural hive structure on a tree branch.
A dense swarm of bees clinging to a tree branch amidst lush green foliage during summertime in Switzerland.
Close-up of a honey bee swarm on a tree branch in Daura, Nigeria.

While honey bees are generally at their most docile during swarming (as they have no honey or brood to defend), you must approach with extreme caution. A swarm can become defensive if physically disturbed, sprayed with water, or subjected to loud vibrations from machinery like lawnmowers. Maintain a safe distance of at least 10 meters (approx. 30 feet) and avoid sudden movements or dark, furry clothing that might resemble a natural predator. It is critical to distinguish them from wasps, which are bright yellow with distinct black stripes and smooth bodies, or bumblebees, which are much rounder and fuzzier. If the insects are entering a single hole in a wall or roof, they are likely an established colony rather than a swarm, and you should never attempt to seal the hole or remove them yourself.

Safety Checklist
Keep your distance: Do not stand directly under or next to the cluster.
Keep pets and children away: Ensure they do not throw objects at the swarm.
Identify correctly: Check for duller, amber-brown banding and hairy bodies.
Do not use chemicals: Never spray a swarm with insecticide; this agitates the bees and makes professional collection much more dangerous.

Call a professional: Use the British Beekeepers Association (BBKA) swarm map to find a local collector who has the training and protective gear to relocate them safely. Please only arrange collection with one beekeeper. You may need to contact more than one to find someone who is able to collect.

When someone calls HRBKA to report a swarm, the volunteer beekeeper has to act as a “detective” to ensure they are prepared and that the bees are actually honey bees.

Here is a breakdown of what the public will be asked and what will happen during the visit.

Phase 1: The “Interview” (Questions You Will Be Asked)

Beekeepers are volunteers and often travel at their own expense, so they will ask these specific questions to avoid “wasted journeys” (e.g., for wasps or bumblebees).

  • “Can you describe the cluster and its size?”
    • Why: Honey bees cluster in a ball. Beekeepers look for comparisons like a tennis ball, football, or basketball. “Huge” or “massive” isn’t helpful; they need a scale.
  • “How high is the swarm?”
    • Why: A beekeeper needs to know if they need a ladder, a long-reach pole, or if they should bring a second person for safety.
  • “Where exactly is it located?”
    • Why: Is it on a flexible tree branch (easy), a brick wall (harder), or inside a chimney/roof (usually impossible for a standard volunteer)?
  • “How long have they been there?”
    • Why: If they just arrived, they are likely to stay for a few hours. If they’ve been there for days, they might be starting to build comb, which makes removal more complex.
  • “Are you 100% sure they are honey bees?”
    • Why: Most calls turn out to be Bumblebees (often in bird boxes) or Wasps (usually entering a hole in the ground or roof). Beekeepers only collect honey bees.
  • “Can you send me a photo?”
    • This is the most important question. A clear photo saves everyone time.

Phase 2: What to Expect During the Visit

If the beekeeper agrees to come, the “collection” is usually a two-part process that happens over several hours.

Step 1: The Capture (Usually Daytime)

  • Arrival: The beekeeper will arrive in a white suit and veils. They will ask you to keep children and pets indoors and close your windows.
  • The “Shake”: If the bees are on a branch, the beekeeper will place a box (or a straw “skep”) underneath and give the branch a firm, sharp shake. Most of the bees will fall into the box.
  • The Waiting Game: The beekeeper will then place the box on the ground (often on a white sheet) with one edge propped up.
  • Finding the Queen: If the Queen is in the box, the remaining flying bees will begin “fanning” (standing at the entrance with their tails in the air) to guide the others inside. If the Queen was missed, the bees will fly back to the branch, and the beekeeper will have to try again.

Step 2: The “Settling” Period

  • Leaving the box: The beekeeper cannot take the bees away immediately. They must leave the box exactly where it is until dusk.
  • Why wait? Thousands of “scout bees” are currently out flying, looking for a permanent home. If the beekeeper leaves at 2 PM, all those returning scouts will be left behind, confused and potentially defensive. They need to wait until the “commuters” return home for the night.

Step 3: The Departure (Evening)

  • Collection: The beekeeper will return at sunset when all the bees are tucked inside the box.
  • Sealing: they will wrap the box in a secure mesh or sheet and take them away to a new apiary (quarantine) to be checked for health and given a permanent hive.

Some beekeepers may ask for a contribution towards fuel costs as they are collecting entirely voluntarily. This should be made clear before they come to collect. The majority of beekeepers are willing to collect these for free as they are either looking to increase their stock or may have a member of HRBKA who is looking for bees to begin their beekeeping journey. The bees will be assessed for temperament and disease before they go onto a new beekeeper.